Expand your culinary horizonsCAD/US $6.95Issue 34 Summer 2019for people who love to read, love to eat and love to travelplusKnoxvilleProvenceSavannahSt auguStineliSbontasting New SmyrNa BeachSiNgapore swingsBarBadoS rum and salted fishyukoN adventureSoNoma wine IslandsBritish VirginSOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO.Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro.Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel.875" (+ 1/8" bleed)From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEIletter4 summer Funevent6 The Flavours Of Canada At The James Beard HousediSPatcheS8 Hot Off The GrillWhat’s new in the world of culinary travel.journal12 taste&travel readers report from around the world. 12 st Augustine 13 savannah 14 Lisbon 15 MemphisdeStinationS50 singapore swings! elySe glicKman chows down in the Lion City. 32 BVI Bouncing Back After two devastating hurricanes in 2017, the British Virgin Islands are recovering in style. By SuSie elliSon. 22 Land Of Rum And salted Fish talia Wooldridge explores the lively food scene in Barbados.42 Guanajuato Revoluciòn A power outage doesn’t stop the fun in Mexico for elySe glicKman. 7212lodgingS28 Château La Coste, Provence by andrea ratuSKi.taSte&travel library80 Book ReviewCoconut Lagoon by joe thottungal.83 On The BookshelfNew additions to the taste&travel library.taSte&travel Kitchen84 ThymeSuSan hallett on thyme for everything.87 Vegetarian VoyagerMasoor Dal and Spinach Curry.95 Cooking With taSte&travel Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips.regional marKetPlace88 The Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OttAWA 89 tORONtO 90 MONtReAL 91 CALgARy 92 WINNIpeg 94 VANCOUVeRnota bene96 shop Like A Canadian!dining58 New smyrna Beach SuSie elliSon discovers new wave American cuisine on the Florida coast. quench16 Greener Grape Growinganne deSbriSay learns about sustainable, organic and biodynamic wineries in Sonoma County. marKet FocuS48 Market square Farmers’ Market, Knoxville, TNletterS From the edge72 Adventures In Yukonnathan Fong is brought to tears by the rugged beauty of the far north. heritage66 Foods Of Ancient Rometry out some surprisingly modern recipes from ancient Rome. By SuSan hallett.Summerfor people who love to read, love to eat and love to travelcontentSissue 34 • July–september • 2019Enjoyit!Expand your culinary horizonsOnline Now!www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.comGET itSummer FunCOVeR 2019Janet p. boileau PubliSherSummerpUBLISheR Janet P. BoileauSeNIOR eDItORIAL CONSULtANt Christopher P. HillCReAtIVe DIReCtOR Charlotte KahnSeNIOR eDItORS Anita Stewart, Anne DesBrisayCONtRIBUtINg eDItORS Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Nathan Fong, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele PetersontRAVeL eDItORS Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence eUROpeAN eDItOR Susan HallettFOOD eDItOR Shari ScheskeCONtRIBUtINg phOtOgRApheR Michel ChicoineWeB DIReCtOR Michael HydeWeB eDItOR & SOCIAL MeDIA MANAgeR Emily KennedyCOMMUNICAtIONS COORDINAtOR Melissa WeinerADVeRtISINg SALeS advertising@tasteandtravel.capRINteR The Lowe-Martin Group, OttawaCONtACt US info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.comeDItORIAL eNqUIRIeS editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.comSUBSCRIptIONS & CIRCULAtION subscriptions@TasteAndTravelMagazine.comprinted in Canada. Canada post publications Mail Agreement Number 42167015 © 2019 taste&travel International is published quarterly by taste and travel publishing International Inc. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Subscription rate is $100 annually.food day Canada falls on August 3rd this year and we’re looking forward to creating a meal crafted purely with Canadian ingredients. It’s a fun challenge that stretches the culinary imagination and invariably leads to amazement as we discover just how innovative Canadian food producers have become. turn to page 96 and you’ll see what we mean! And if you’d like to see how the pros do it, take a look at our eVeNt pages and the menu presented by Food Day Canada’s founder Anita stewart and a team of Canadian chefs at the James beard House in New york City. Fabulous!Our cover story in this issue is a particularly heartwarming one. the British Virgin Islands were slammed by category five hurricanes Irma and Maria two years ago, resulting in massive damage to homes and businesses, and devastation of the tourism infrastructure. But as Susie ellison discovered on an enviably comfortable fact-finding mission, the yachties’ favourite Caribbean playground is back in business and as beautiful as ever.From BVI we follow the sunshine to Barbados, Mexico, Florida and Singapore, drop in on some eco-conscious winemakers in California and follow in the footsteps of fortune seekers in the yukon. A bit of time travel takes us to ancient Rome and some recipes that transition surprisingly well to the modern kitchen.i had a lot of fun this spring testing recipes from Ottawa chef Joe thottungal’s new cookbook, Coconut Lagoon, which was penned in collaboration with our friend and contributor Anne DesBrisay. you can read my review in our BOOKSheLF section and try out some of my favourite recipes from the book. you might think Indian cooking is difficult if you haven’t tackled it before but Coconut Lagoon makes it easy, and delivers delicious results. happy cooking!4taste& travel international july–september 2019letterEnjoy it!Join the party! On saturday august 3, 2019 Cook Canadian!august2019From coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world.A celebration of Canadian food and food producersget tHe d.I.y. guIde at www.FooddayCanada.calangdon hall3The Flavours of Canada PhotograPhy © by Jeffrey gurwinevery year, celebrated host and food historian anita Stewart and a top-tier band of Canadian chefs trek south to celebrate food Day Canada at the James beard house in new york City. on May 22 this year, the team prepared an unforgettable feast replete with uniquely Canadian ingredients from coast to coast, in a toast to culinary diversity, regional specialties and foraged fun.alberta gouda Cheese Puffs with Prairie beef tartare and Cured egg yolk–Juniper aiolialberta Cedar granitégrilled Millennium asparagus with niagara Prosciutto, black walnut vinaigrette, and Pickled Spring Mushroomsbehind the scenes at the beard house kitchenbeetroot-Cured rainbow trout with Crème fraîche, yukon gold rosti, and Chives6taste& travel international july–september 2019eventuSaCanadaat The James Beard Houserhubarb hot-and-Sour broth with rhubarb-Cured alberta rainbow trout and roe, and Poached gull valley tomato SaladPrince edward County–Style Steamed Pickerel with fines herbes, union Square Market vegetables, and wild Leek Soubisethe team in the beard house kitchenoaC honey–roasted King Cole Duck breast with Preserved niagara CherriesPrairie rhubarb flapper Pie with Compressed rhubarb, Curd, buckwheat Crust, and Crisp Meringueelora-grown oaC rosito beans with Smoked garlic Scape–wild ramp relish and birch Syrup glazegaLaSa aDen Deane House, Calgary, ABroD butterS RauDZ Regional Table, Micro Bar & Bites, and Sunny’s, Kelowna, BC, and Terrafina at Hester Creek, Oliver, BCbernarD CaSavant RauDZ Regional Table, Micro Bar & Bites, and Sunny’s, Kelowna, BC, and Terrafina at Hester Creek, Oliver, BCtoDD CLarMo The Bauer Kitchen, Waterloo, ONvaLerie JanKoviCh University of Guelph, Guelph, ONJaMie KenneDy JK Kitchens, Toronto and Prince Edward County, ONDunCan Ly Foreign Concept, Calgary, ABeriC neaveS Conestoga College, Waterloo, ONShea robinSon Miijidaa Café + Bistro, Guelph, ONJaSon wiLLiaMS Treadwell, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ONthe Chefs7july–september 2019 taste& travel internationaleventuSaNext >