Expand your culinary horizons for people who love to read , love to eat and love to travel Issue 38 Summer 2020 HAWAII dInInG SCene CURAÇAO CoaStal OAXACA food toUr OSAKA toUrInG TURKEY 72 hoUrS PORTUGAL Regional Cuisine plus DOMINICAN AUSTRALIA LAUSANNE TURIN CALIFORNIASOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO. Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro. Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel.875" (+ 1/8" bleed) From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548 Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI72 5664 LETTER 4 Peculiar Times EvENT 6 Food Day Canada DISpATChES 8 Hot Off The Grill What’s new in the world of culinary travel. jOURNAL 12 taSte&travel readers report from around the world. 12 Hunter Valley 13 Lausanne 14 Piedmont 15 santa Barbara DININg 44 seasoned At sea A lockdown kitchen blunder reminds EMILY KENNEDY of the challenges yachting cooks face. 58 Going Coastal Oaxaca TALIA WOOLDRIDgE shares her picks for the hottest dining in Oaxaca’s laid-back Pacific coast beach towns. DESTINATIONS 16 72 Hours In Portugal TALIA WOOLDRIDgE covers a whole lot of tasty ground during a short trip to Lisbon. 26 Curaçao Beyond The Beach Most visitors come for the fabulous beaches and water sports but as ELYSE gLICKMAN reports, the restaurant and bar scene is worthy of its own hype. 36 Piedmont On The Market jESSICA KOBEL explores two fabulous Italian food halls in Turin. QUENCh 48 Mamajuana STEphANIE ARSENAULT discovers the delight of a boozy tradition in the Dominican Republic. MARKET FOCUS 42 The French Market, New Orleans S ummer LETTERS FROM ThE EDgE 72 Mediterranean Flavours, Turkish style WAhEEDA hARRIS explores the culinary life of Istanbul and beyond. hERITAgE 64 Hawaiian Regional Cuisine We revisit NAThAN FONg ’s essay on the birth of a culinary movement. FOOD TOUR 52 Osaka, One Bite At A Time By ELYSE gLICKMAN . TASTE&TRAvEL LIBRARY 80 Book Review Bitter Honey by LETITIA CLARK . 83 On The Bookshelf New to the shelves of the taSte & travel library. TASTE&TRAvEL KITChEN 84 Garlic SUSAN hALLETT profiles the stinking rose. 87 Vegetarian Voyager Ratatofu. 95 Cooking With TASTE & TRAvEL Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips. REgIONAL MARKETpLACE 88 The Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OTTAWA 89 TOROnTO 90 MOnTReAL 91 CALgARy 92 WInnIPeg 93 sAn DIegO 94 vAnCOUveR NOTA BENE 96 Remembering Nathan Fong for people who love to read , love to eat and love to travel CONTENTS ISSUE 38 • July–september • 2020 Read it!Expand your culinary horizons Online Now! www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.com GET itPeculiar Times S u m m e r COVeR 2020 Janet p. boileau pUBLIShER PUBLIsheR Janet P. Boileau senIOR eDITORIAL COnsULTAnT Christopher P. Hill CReATIve DIReCTOR Charlotte Kahn senIOR eDITORs Anita Stewart, Anne DesBrisay COnTRIBUTIng eDITORs Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Nathan Fong, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele Peterson TRAveL eDITORs Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence eUROPeAn eDITOR Susan Hallett FOOD eDITOR Shari Scheske COnTRIBUTIng PhOTOgRAPheR Michel Chicoine WeB DIReCTOR Michael Hyde WeB eDITOR & sOCIAL MeDIA MAnAgeR Emily Kennedy COMMUnICATIOns COORDInATOR Melissa Weiner ADveRTIsIng sALes advertising@tasteandtravel.ca PRInTeR The Lowe-Martin Group, Ottawa COnTACT Us info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.com eDITORIAL enqUIRIes editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com sUBsCRIPTIOns & CIRCULATIOn subscriptions@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com Printed in Canada. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement number 42167015 © 2020 Taste&Travel International is published quarterly by Taste and Travel Publishing International Inc. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. no part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. subscription rate is $100 annually. few of US, including the experts, anticipated how dramatic and all- encompassing the effects of Covid-19 disease would become. There have been pandemics before but a worldwide spread, requiring global response, was unprecedented. every one of us, whether personally, professionally, or both, has had to alter our way of living and face some harsh truths. But we are resilient by nature; we regroup, dig in, and do what we can to move on. Our lead time of three to six months means that most of the stories in this issue were written before Covid-19 brought the travel industry to a halt. Until borders open up again and we can move from place to place without endangering others, we can read and dream about places we’d like visit, or know more about. And we can cook our way around the world too, giving thought to people bent over the stove everywhere. The way we travel in future may be different but we will continue to explore our amazing, diverse and delicious world and to share our stories with you. every summer we are proud to partner with Food Day Canada, the initiative founded by our senior editor Anita stewart, CM that honours Canadian food and food producers. now more than ever, food security is an issue that affects us all. showing support for the people who labour to bring food to our tables is as simple as setting aside one day to cook with Canadian ingredients and to share your menu and photos on social media. We hope you will join the party! Please enjoy our summer issue. stay safe, be well and be kind! 4 taste& travel international july–september 2020 LETTER Enjoy it!Join the party! On saturday august 1, 2020 Cook Canadian! august 2020 F rom coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world. A celebration of Canadian food and food producers HErE’s HOW tO taKE Part https://fooddaycanada.ca/fooddaycanada/ langdon hall 1…to Food Day Canada 2020! You’re Invited… This year’s NaTioNal Food day CaNada held on saturday august 01 st 2020, will mark 17 years since the first celebration. Food day Canada was created to ensure Canadians could honour the many fine ingredients, culinary talent and agricultural innovations Canada produces. The emphasis in 2020 is to share your menus, your ingredients and your stories via #FooddayCanada or @FooddayCanada and join the party! here’s hoW To TaKe ParT: https://fooddaycanada.ca/fooddaycanada/ 6 taste& travel international july–september 2020 EvENT CANADA Cook it7 july–september 2020 taste& travel international EvENT CANADA every summer we are proud to partner with Food day CaNada, the initiative founded by Taste&Travel senior editor anita stewart Cm that honours Canadian food and food producers. Now more than ever, food security is an issue that affects us all. showing support for the people who labour to bring food to our tables is as simple as setting aside one day to cook with Canadian ingredients and to share your menu and photos on social media. We hope you will join the party! Do itNext >